The French Chef in America Page 33
the organic movement: Hartman and Raichlen, “Julia Child.”
“There is no room for the cult”: Shapiro, Julia Child, 161.
“I just do not want to be allied”: Ibid., 162.
Julia spoke out in favor: Ibid. Also, JC to SB, January 15, 1970.
she dismissed the Food and Drug Administration: Hartman and Raichlen, “Julia Child.”
“Rotten apples”: JC to ADeV, May 14, 1972.
“All this romance about French products”: JC to ADeV, May 14, 1972.
“We don’t believe good food”: Shapiro, Julia Child, 153.
“The Big Mac I like least”: “The Hamburger Empire,” Time, September 17, 1973.
“Would you rather have an airline lunch”: Hartman and Raichlen, “Julia Child.”
The first French McDonald’s: Rob Wile, “The True Story of How McDonald’s Conquered France,” Business Insider, August 22, 2014. After a dispute with its original franchisee, Raymond Dayan, the Chicago-based chain changed the way its stores in France operated. After shuttering its outlets there for a year, McDonald’s worked with a new franchisee; the company dates its first store opening in France to 1979.
the sheep farmer José Bové: Suzanne Daley, “Montredon Journal; French See a Hero in War on ‘McDomination,’ ” The New York Times, October 12, 1999.
there were more than twelve hundred: Wile, “The True Story of How McDonald’s Conquered France.”
a refined recipe for tuna casserole: Shapiro, Julia Child, 167.
“We’ve been terribly spoiled”: Hartman and Raichlen, “Julia Child.”
“What do you think of women’s lib?” she asked a reporter: Efron, “Dinner with Julia Child.”
“We who are pro women’s rights”: Polly Frost, “Julia Child,” Interview, August 1989.
“Women should stop squawking”: “Julia Will Cook a ‘Series of Spectaculars,’ ” The Bridgeport Post, October 4, 1973.
“What are your plans”: “Dear Abby,” “Julia Child Stirs Up Issues for Planned Parenthood,” The Miami News, July 15, 1982.
“You run into so many situations”: Hartman and Raichlen, “Julia Child.”
“neither French, nor a chef”: Amanda Cohen, “Madeleine Kamman, The French Chef Who Battled Julia Child (And Survived),” The Braiser, n.d. http://www.thebraiser.com/lady-chef-stampede-madeleine-kamman/.
“not a cook, but she plays one on TV”: Regina Schrambling, “A Tribute to Karen Hess,” edibleManhattan, July 4, 2013.
“Why Julia?”: Molly O’Neill, “For Madeleine Kamman, a Gentler Simmer,” The New York Times, January 14, 1998.
“very controversial”: Marian Burros, “Flinty, Revered Teacher of Chefs,” The New York Times, August 4, 1993.
“I shall grab her”: From the Harvard Institute for Learning in Retirement, 1985; quoted in Fitch, Appetite for Life, 352.
“I was a good fighter”: O’Neill, “For Madeleine Kamman, a Gentler Simmer.”
“How shall we tell our fellow”: John L. Hess and Karen Hess, The Taste of America (New York: Penguin Books, 1977).
“What are these people”: Shapiro, Julia Child, 156.
They deemed Pierre Franey: Betty Fussell, “Food Edenist,” The New York Times Magazine, December 30, 2007.
“Those of us who were new”: Ibid.
“Julia will be more responsible”: Fussell, Masters of American Cookery, 48.
“Cooking While Gassed”: Fitch, Appetite for Life, 301.
Grilled Dill Pickles: Judy Graubart as Julia Grownup, on “Here’s Cooking at You,” The Electric Company, PBS, show no. 73 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-wxb2TEWUs).
“I adored Julia”: Judy Graubart to the author, June 23, 2014.
“Julia Child was directly responsible”: Dan Aykroyd to the author, May 1, 2014.
“How many times”: From NBC video, Saturday Night Live, April 17, 1976 (http://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-live/video/bassomatic/n8631).
Julia borrowed: JP to the author.
“Julia Child” was dressed: Dan Aykroyd as Julia Child in Saturday Night Live, Season 4, Episode 8, December 9, 1978.
“just so that it would make a noise”: Stephen Wadsworth, “Julia Sums Up,” Dial, April 1981.
“We thought it was terribly funny”: Ibid. Also, JC to the author.
Dorie Greenspan: Dorie Greenspan to the author, April 18, 2015.
11. BURSTING OUT OF THE STRAITJACKET
“I’m not tired”: JC interviewed by John Callaway.
“We felt it was time”: Child, Julia Child & Company, vii.
“It didn’t take too much”: Ibid.
“Americans don’t want”: MLiF, 209.
“calculator”: Bourdain, “Julia Child Is Stirring Up More Treats.”
“ ‘Diet food’ ”: Child, Julia Child & Company, 37.
“We wouldn’t do the new series”: Bourdain, “Julia Child Is Stirring Up More Treats.”
“shrimp’s intestine”: Child, Julia Child & Company, x.
“Whether we were devising”: Child, Julia Child & More Company, viii.
“No question, it was great TV”: Sara Moulton to the author, October 10, 2013.
Mimi Sheraton praised: Mimi Sheraton, “Cookbooks,” The New York Times, December 3, 1978.
“selling as if it were free”: Bourdain, “Julia Child Is Stirring Up More Treats.”
the Company programs: Ibid.
“We just KILLED ourselves”: Wadsworth, “Julia Sums Up.”
“It’s the Balkanization”: RM to the author, May 28, 2015.
“After a while, the whole how-to genre”: Henry Becton to the author, May 27, 2015.
“As soon as you’re off the television”: Hartman and Raichlen, “Julia Child.”
“I love working”: Russ Parsons, “A Day in the Life, at 90,” Los Angeles Times, August 7, 2002.
12. PRIME TIME
“Actually, now we are into it”: JC to SB, October 29, 1980.
In a typical week: JC date book, 1980.
In a show about rice pilaf: Nancy Verde Barr, Backstage with Julia, 31.
“Years later, my mother decided”: Sara Moulton to the author, October 10, 2013.
“How time indeed flies”: JC to SB, July 4, 1984.
She taped five segments: Episodes available online: “Julia Child Introduces Snack Foods of Nice” (http://www.mefeedia.com/watch/21027823).
Kathie Alex: Kathie Alex to author. At the time of writing, Kathie Alex has retired and sold La Pitchoune.
13. THE CELEBRITY CHEF
“Julia was a real authority”: Henry Becton to the author, May 27, 2015.
“If I can do it”: JC to the author.
“The more you do”: Hartman and Raichlen, “Julia Child.”
“I went back into the kitchen”: Emeril Lagasse to the author, April 15, 2014.
“cool and sexy”: Dorie Greenspan, at the Santa Barbara Food & Wine Festival, April 18, 2015.
“Plating food”: Russ Parsons, at the Santa Barbara Food & Wine Festival, April 18, 2015.
Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Daniel Boulud: Greenspan, Santa Barbara Food & Wine Festival, April 18, 2015.
“If you don’t eat”: JP quoting JC, “How ‘Reality’ TV Cooking Shows Get It Wrong,” The Daily Meal, July 14, 2014. Also, “Learn to Cook with ‘Gusto’ Advises Kitchen’s Grand Dame,” Associated Press, September 27, 1978.
“I’m really getting tired”: JC to SB, July 28, 1977.
14. “BON APPÉTIT, AMERICA!”
“I’ll never, never”: Hartman and Raichlen, “Julia Child.”
“a sacred trust”: MLiF, 302.
“You have to show people”: Hartman and Raichlen, “Julia Child.”
“If you want to be a chef”: Ibid.
“to advance the understanding”: www.AIWF.org.
Parade had a circulation: Philip H. Dougherty, “Advertising; Parade’s $1 million Campaign,”
The New York Times, January 28, 1983.
“It was meant to be upscale”: RM to the author, May 28, 2015.
Julia’s knees: JC to SB, July 4, 1983.
Dinner’s elegant mise-en-scène: John J. O’Connor, “TV: Julia Child Series on Dinners,” The New York Times, November 17, 1983.
Food, transportation: Phyllis C. Richman, “Making Dinner at Julia’s,” The Washington Post, April 13, 1983.
“I suffer”: PC date book, February 8, 1983.
Paul had a series: JC to SB, April 18, 1976; July 28, 1979; January 28, 1981; February 26, 1981; May 28, 1986.
“Mon pauvre Paul”: JC to SB, February 20, 1987.
ABC received letters: The Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts, Timeline: 1980.
wandered out of 103 Irving Street: Spitz, Dearie, 463.
“Let the living live!”: JC to the author.
“You must be patient”: JC to SB, February 20, 1987.
“Both Simca and Louisette”: JC, Introduction to Beck, Food & Friends, xv.
double pneumonia: Suzanne Patterson to JC, June 6, 1991, and June 9, 1991.
“We were like sisters”: Trish Hall, “Simone Beck, a Cook, Dies at 87: Co-Wrote Book with Julia Child,” The New York Times, December 21, 1991.
Provence was becoming: JC to William Truslow, July 5, 1992.
She cooked a final: MLiF, 301.
“I left France”: JC to William Truslow, July 5, 1992.
The “Merci, Julia” party: Marian Burros, “For Julia Child, an Intimate Dinner for 500,” The New York Times, February 10, 1993.
“Julia’s Kitchen”: National Museum of American History, Smithsonian Institution, Washington, D.C. (http://amhistory.si.edu/juliachild/jck/html/textonly/visiting.asp).
EPILOGUE: A CIVILIZED ART
“I have no fear”: Martha Smilgis, “Live! Eat! Enjoy!,” Ms. Magazine, summer 2003.
“eat in moderation”: JC to the author.
“I think I will go on”: Smilgis, “Live! Eat! Enjoy!”
“My point is to make cooking”: JC interviewed by John Callaway.
“Practically every article on Julie”: Shapiro, Julia Child, 120.
“Some children like to make”: Child, Julia Child & Company, “VIP Lunch,” 91.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
BOOKS BY JULIA CHILD
Mastering the Art of French Cooking, with Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle. New York: Knopf, 1961.
The French Chef Cookbook. New York: Knopf, 1968.
Mastering the Art of French Cooking, Volume II, with Simone Beck. New York: Knopf, 1970.
From Julia Child’s Kitchen. New York: Knopf, 1975.
Julia Child & Company, in collaboration with E. S. Yntema. New York: Knopf, 1978.
Julia Child & More Company, in collaboration with E. S. Yntema. New York: Knopf, 1979.
The Way to Cook. New York: Knopf, 1989.
Julia Child’s Menu Cookbook. New York: Wings (Random House), 1991.
Cooking with Master Chefs. New York: Knopf, 1993.
In Julia Child’s Kitchen with Master Chefs, with Nancy Verde Barr. New York: Knopf, 1995.
Baking with Julia, with Dorie Greenspan. New York: William Morrow, 1996.
Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home. New York: Knopf, 1999.
Julia’s Kitchen Wisdom, with David Nussbaum. New York: Knopf, 2000.
My Life in France, with Alex Prud’homme. New York: Knopf, 2006.
TELEVISION SERIES AND VIDEOS BY JULIA CHILD
The French Chef. WGBH, Boston. PBS, 1962−1973.
Julia Child & Company. WGBH, Boston. PBS, 1978–1979.
Julia Child & More Company. WGBH, Boston. PBS, 1979−1980.
Good Morning America. ABC, 1980−1995.
Dinner at Julia’s. WGBH, Boston. PBS, 1983−1984.
Cooking in Concert. PBS, 1993.
Cooking with Master Chefs. PBS, 1993−1994.
In Julia’s Kitchen with Master Chefs. PBS, 1994−1996.
Julia Child & Jacques Pépin: More Cooking in Concert. PBS, 1995.
Baking with Julia. PBS, 1996−1998.
Julia & Jacques: Cooking at Home. A La Carte Communications, KQED. PBS, 1999−2000.
Julia’s Kitchen Wisdom. A La Carte Communications. PBS, 2000.
BOOKS ABOUT JULIA CHILD
Barr, Nancy Verde. Backstage with Julia: My Years with Julia Child. Hoboken, N.J.: John Wiley & Sons, 2007.
Fitch, Noël Riley. Appetite for Life: The Biography of Julia Child. New York: Doubleday, 1997; Anchor Books, 2012.
Polan, Dana. Julia Child’s The French Chef. Durham, N.C., and London: Duke University Press, 2011.
Shapiro, Laura. Julia Child: A Life. New York: Viking, 2007.
Spitz, Bob. Dearie: The Remarkable Life of Julia Child. New York: Knopf, 2012.
BOOKS BY SIMONE BECK
Simca’s Cuisine, in collaboration with Patricia Simon. New York: Knopf, 1972.
New Menus from Simca’s Cuisine, in collaboration with Michael James. New York: Harcourt Brace Jovanovich, 1979.
Food & Friends: Recipes and Memories from Simca’s Cuisine, with Suzanne Patterson. New York: Viking, 1991.
SECONDARY SOURCES
Ford, Betty. The Times of My Life. New York: Harper & Row, 1978. Excerpted at http://www.fordlibrarymuseum.gov.
Fussell, Betty. Masters of American Cookery: M.F.K. Fisher, James Beard, Craig Claiborne, Julia Child. New York: Times Books, 1983.
Jones, Judith. The Tenth Muse: My Life in Food. New York: Knopf, 2007.
Kamp, David. The United States of Arugula: The Sun-Dried, Cold-Pressed, Dark-Roasted, Extra Virgin Story of the American Food Revolution. New York: Broadway Books, 2007.
Pépin, Jacques. The Apprentice: My Life in the Kitchen. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 2003.
Smith, Andrew F., ed. The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink. New York: Oxford University Press, 2007.
ILLUSTRATION CREDITS
All of the photographs reproduced in this book are by Paul Child, courtesy of the Schlesinger Library, Radcliffe Institute, Harvard University, with the exception and courtesy of the following: Julia and Simca posing for Arnold Newman © Arnold Newman/Getty Images (this page); snapshots by Paul and Julia Child, taken at La Pitchoune, date unknown, courtesy of Susan Davidson; contact sheet © Marc Riboud/Magnum Photos; Queen Elizabeth and President Ford at the White House bicentennial reception: Courtesy of the Gerald R. Ford Presidential Library (this page); Julia with the photographer Jim Scherer and her editor, Judith Jones © Jim Scherer (this page); Julia, the self-described “kitchen gadget freak,” and Paul in Cambridge © Dan Wynn Archive (this page).
A NOTE ABOUT THE AUTHOR
ALEX PRUD’HOMME is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in The New York Times, The New Yorker, and other publications. He is the co-author of Julia Child’s memoir, My Life in France, and authored or co-authored four other books: The Ripple Effect, Hydrofracking, The Cell Game, and Forewarned. He lives with his family in Brooklyn, New York.
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